PDF Service & Repair Instructions Manual Cushman Textron Haulster - 1 MB
This service and repair manual provides complete instructions for maintaining the Cushman Textron Haulster.
It covers all aspects of service, from routine adjustments to major overhauls.
The manual is designed for both professional mechanics and skilled do-it-yourself owners.
Keep your utility vehicle in reliable working condition with this essential guide.
PDF Viewer
Viewer loads when you scroll here
SHARE THIS MANUAL
Download the PDF Manual
PDF viewer loading area
Text Preview from This Manual
The text below was extracted from the visible preview pages to help you confirm the manual contents before download.
--- Page 3 ---
INTRODUCTION
SECTION 1A. GENERAL INFORMATION
JACKS, JACKING LOCATIONS AND Jack the vehicle to the appropriate height and place
jack stands or equivalent support beneath the frame
USING A HOIST
near the jack. Lower the jack and allow the vehicle to 1A
A scissors type jack or a floor jack with a 1-1/2 ton rest on the jack stands. Raise the vehicle only enough
(minimum) capacity that can be lowered to 3-3/8 to perform the maintenance required.
inches (86 mm) height is required.
Make sure to block the tire diagonally opposite of
The jacking locations are shown in Figure 1A-3. the side which is being raised (see Figures 1A-4 and
1A-5).
Put the gear selector in 1st gear. Apply the park brake.
Raise the vehicle only enough to perform maintenance When using a hoist to raise the vehicle, use the same
required. procedure for supporting the frame and blocking the
tires as you would when using a jack.
Place a jack in the appropriate location (see Figure
1A-3) and place a block behind (or in front) of the tire
diagonally opposite the side which is being raised (see
Figure 1A-4).
! WARNING
Do not rely solely on hydraulic or mechanical
jacks for support. Use appropriate jack stands or
equivalent for supporting the vehicle. If using a
hoist, raise vehicle to appropriate height and sup-
port using jack stands or equivalent support.
Never place feet, hands or any part of your body
under the vehicle when raising it with a hoist.
Figure 1A-4. Blocking
! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the vehicle or attached
accessory, never use a hoist to raise only one cor-
ner of the vehicle. Always raise both front or rear
corners equally.
Figure 1A-3. Jacking Locations
1A-5
--- Page 4 ---
CONTROLS
SECTION 2C. CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS
5. Position the shift lever to neutral (N) and make
certain the parking brake is applied. Start the
engine, allow it to warm up with the hand throttle
lever in the ìDOWNî (turtle icon) position and the
hand throttle lever in the ìUPî (rabbit icon) posi-
tion.
6. Loosen the stop nut on the governor cable (see 2C
Figure 2C-15). Move the governor linkage arm by
hand until 2500 ± 50 RPM is obtained, then tighten
the stop nut.
Figure 2C-13. Throttle Cable Adjustment
4. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin securing
yoke and rod to black governor arm (see Figure
2C-14). Pull the yellow plated governor arm back
to the end of travel and hold while adjusting rod so
that edge of black governor arm is parallel with the
sides of the governor housing. Secure yoke to
governor arm with clevis pin only. This is a critical
adjustment, make sure you pull the yellow arm
Figure 2C-15. RPM Adjustments
back when adjusting the rod. If the rod is too short,
correct setting of the high RPM will be affected. 7. Move the handle throttle lever to ìUPî (rabbit icon)
position and move the governor control lever ìUPî
or ìDOWNî until 3600 ± 50 RPM is obtained.
Tighten the governor stop screw (see Figure 2C-15)
to lock the high RPM setting.
8. Push the hand throttle lever to the full ìUPî posi-
tion, the engine RPM may briefly exceed the
adjusted high speed (3600 ± 50 RPM) but should
return to that speed almost immediately.
9. If governor hunts during throttle up test, in Step 8
above, remove the clevis pin and adjust governor
rod shorter, 1/2 turn at a time (the rod is too long)
until the governor stops hunting during the test.
The RPM should not be significantly affected. If
the RPM increases when making this adjustment
the rod is already too short and the adjustment
procedure in Step 4 above should be repeated.
Install the clevis pin and cotter pin after
readjusting.
Figure 2C-14. Governor Arm Adjustment
2C-5
--- Page 5 ---
ENGINE
SECTION 3A. REPAIR AND SERVICE TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Tools required: Standard automotive hand tools.
Cleaning materials: Stoddard or equivalent solvent.
Detergent and water.
Anti-rust Never-Seize.
3A
Lubricants: Refer to SECTION 11.
Other service items: Compressed air source.
Engine hoist.
Oil filter.
Fuel filter.
Air cleaner element.
Fan belt.
LoctiteÆ 592.
3A-1
--- Page 6 ---
ENGINE
SECTION 3E. GASOLINE ENGINES
GENERAL SPARK PLUGS
The gasoline engine used in your vehicle is a 3-cylinder 1. Pull out spark plug wires by gripping their caps
Suzuki 660 with either a conventional or electronic fuel and then remove the spark plugs.
injected (EFI) system. An engine service manual for 2. Inspect for electrode wear, carbon deposits and
both engines is available from your dealer. insulator damage.
3. If any problem is found, adjust spark plug air gap,
SPARK PLUG WIRES clean with spark plug cleaner or replace them with
1. Remove high tension coil cable at ignition coil specified new plugs.
while gripping its cap. 4. Gap spark plugs to 0.032 to 0.035 inch (0.8 to
0.9 mm). 3E
5. Torque spark plugs to 18.5 to 21.5 ft-lbs. (25 to
! CAUTION 30 N.m).
6. Install spark plug wires securely by gripping their
caps.
Removal of spark plug wires together with clamps is
recommended so as not to damage their inside
wire. For the same reason, pull out each connection IGNITION SYSTEM (CONVENTIONAL)
by gripping at the cap. The basic components of this ignition system are igni-
tion coil, distributor and spark plugs. The components
of the distributor are signal generator (signal rotor and
2. Remove distributor cap with spark plug wires pickup coil), igniter, rotor, cap and both vacuum and
installed. centrifugal advance.
3. Remove high tension cable clamp from cylinder
When the distributor shaft rotates, the magnetic flux
head cover.
passing through the pickup coil varies due to the
4. Pull out spark plug wire from each spark plug change in air gap between the pickup coil and the sig-
while gripping its cap. nal rotor. As a result, the alternating current voltage is
5. Use an ohmmeter to measure spark plug wire induced in the pickup coil.
resistance. Resistance should be 3 ñ 6.7 k/ft. (10 The voltage induced, turns on and off the igniter which
to 22 k/m). switched off the ignition coil primary current. Thus, the
6. If resistance is outside of specified reading, high voltage is induced in the secondary winding of
inspect and replace the distributor cap and/or ignition coil and ignition sparks are generated at the
spark plug wires as required. spark plugs.
The spark advance is produced by the vacuum
advancer which operates based on the engine vac-
! CAUTION uum and centrifugal advancer.
IGNITION COIL TEST (See Figure 3E-1)
Never use metal conductor high tension wires as
replacement parts. Insert each cap portion fully Measure resistances of primary and secondary wind-
when installing spark plug wires. ings of the ignition coil at 68F (20C). If resistance is
out of specification replace coil with a new one.
Primary Winding 1.08 to 1.32 Ω (Ohms)
Resistance
Secondary Winding 22.1 to 29.2 Ω (Ohms)
Resistance
3E-1
--- Page 7 ---
ENGINE
SECTION 3E. GASOLINE ENGINES
ENGINE INSTALLATION 5. Reconnect clutch cable to clutch arm and recon-
nect return spring. To adjust see SECTION 2C.
1. Using a suitable lifting device, lift engine and posi-
tion in-line with transmission. 6. Install drive shaft.
2. Push engine toward transmission so drive shaft 7. Reconnect accelerator and governor cables. See
splines of transmission engage clutch. It may be SECTION 2C for adjustments.
necessary to rotate transmission gearing to index 8. Reconnect exhaust pipe.
clutch disc splines.
9. Reconnect intake and return fuel lines.
3. Fasten engine to bell housing.
10. Reconnect electrical wiring.
4. Install engine mounting hardware.
3E
Brackets
Fuel
Pump
Bracket
Fuel
Lines
Regulator
Filter
Hose
Clamps
Figure 3E-9. EFI Fuel System
3E-11
--- Page 8 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4B. FAILURE ANALYSIS
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE REMEDY
1. Noisy when vehicle a. Excessive gear backlash. a. Adjust (Section 4G or 4H).
moving forward or b. Faulty U-joints. b. Repair (Section 4C).
reverse.
2. Clunking sound when a. Axle drive U-joint faulty. a. Repair (Section 4C).
changing direction. b. Excessive differential gear b. Adjust (Section 4I).
backlash.
3. Control lever moves but a. Control lever assembly broken or a. Replace control lever or housing
will not shift. damaged. assembly (Section 4G or 4H).
b. Damaged offset lever, shift fork, b. Remove shifter case cover.
selector plate or selector arm. Check for damaged parts.
Replace damaged parts (Section
4B
4G).
4. Hard shift or control lever a. Clutch not releasing. a. Adjust or replace clutch
will not move into gear. (Section 4D).
b. Improper or low transmission b. Add or drain and replace with
lubricant. proper lubricant (Section 11).
c. Shifter shaft or shift rail binding. c. Remove shifter case cover.
Check for damaged parts.
Replace damaged parts (Section
d. Binding of sliding synchronizer or 4G or 4H).
gears. d. Remove shifter case cover.
Check that synchronizers and
gears (parts with shifting grooves)
slide freely on shafts. Remove
and replace damaged parts (Sec-
e. Reverse only, seized backup tion 4G or 4H).
switch. e. Remove and check backup
switch. Replace if seized
(Section 10).
5. Slipping clutch. a. Loss of clearance at the tip of a. Adjust (Section 4D).
release fork.
b. Clutch facings dirty with oil or b. Replace (Section 4D).
excessively worn.
c. Weakened diaphragm spring. c. Replace (Section 4D).
d. Distorted pressure plate or fly- d. Replace (Section 4D).
wheel surface.
e. Improper clutch pedal free travel. e. Adjust and/or replace clutch
facings (Section 4D).
6. Dragging clutch. a. Improper clutch pedal free travel. a. Adjust free travel (Section 4D).
b. Weakened diaphragm spring or b. Replace (Section 4D).
worn spring tip.
c. Damaged or worn splines of c. Replace (Section 4G or 4H).
transmission input shaft.
d. Front input shaft bearing worn or d. Replace (Section 4G or 4H).
broken.
e. Excessively wobbly clutch disc. e. Replace (Section 4D).
f. Clutch facings broken or dirty f. Replace (Section 4D).
with oil.
4B-1
--- Page 9 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4D. CLUTCH
3. After installing release shaft/fork bushings, caulk
transmission case against bushings at two points.
4. Position the return spring (see Figure 4D-3) on the
clutch release shaft/fork.
5. Install the clutch release shaft/fork in the bushings.
Install the clutch release lever on the shaft/fork as
shown in Figure 4D-8, aligning the two punch
marks on the release arm with the shaft/fork.
Figure 4D-9. Clutch Cover and Disc Installation
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS
After repair of the clutch and/or removal of the
engine or transmission, adjust clutch pedal free
travel, clutch cable and interlock switch as described
in SECTION 2C.
Figure 4D-8. Clutch Release Lever Installation
6. Hook the return spring (Figure 4D-3) onto the
clutch release lever.
7. Install the clutch release bearing on the transmis-
sion input shaft retainer.
8. Refer to Figure 4D-9, use a flywheel holder tool to
hold the engine flywheel. Use a clutch center
guide tool to install the disc and clutch cover to the
flywheel. Secure with six cover bolts. Torque bolts
to 13.5 to 20 ft-lbs. (18 to 25 N.m). Remove the
center guide tool.
4D-4
--- Page 11 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4G. 4-SPEED TRANSMISSION
GENERAL 8. Attach a suitable hoist to the transmission.
9. Remove hardware that fastens the transmission to
The transmission is a 4-speed manual shift type. The
the engine.
shift pattern is a standard H pattern with reverse R
over to the right and down. 10. Remove any remaining transmission hardware
from mounting brackets on the frame until the
In some cases the entire transmission may not have to transmission is free to be lifted.
be disassembled. Disassemble only what is needed
for repair. 11. Carefully move the transmission away from the
engine flywheel and move the transmission out of
the frame to a suitable work stand.
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative (ñ) and positive (+) bat- INPUT SHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT
tery cables from battery terminals.
2. Tag and disconnect all cables, hoses, tubes or
NOTE
Whenever the engine and transmission are
control linkages which would obstruct lifting the
transmission out of the frame.
separated, the transmission input shaft bear- 4G
ing mounted in the engine flywheel should be
3. Remove any sheet metal which would obstruct lift- inspected for wear or damage.
ing the transmission out of the frame.
1. Turn the bearing by hand, if it sticks, rattles or
4. Remove the drain plug and drain oil from the makes abnormal noise when spun, it should be
transmission. Replace drain plug and torque to replaced.
14.5 to 21.5 ft-lbs. (20 to 30 N.m) for units with 3-
cylinder gasoline engines and 26.5 to 36.0 ft-lbs. 2. Remove the input shaft bearing using a removal
(36 to 50 N.m) for units with 4-cylinder gasoline or tool as shown in Figure 4G-1.
diesel engines. 3. Install a new bearing as shown in Figure 4G-1.
5. Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch 4. Visually check the flywheel surface, where it
release lever. contacts the clutch disc, for wear or damage. If
6. Disconnect the shift cables (see SECTION 4E). wear or damage is determined, replace the fly-
wheel in accordance with engine manufacturerís
7. Disconnect the drive shaft at the transmission (see instructions.
SECTION 4C).
Figure 4G-1. Input Shaft Bearing Replacement
4G-1
--- Page 12 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4G. 4-SPEED TRANSMISSION
Since the ring is unable to slide along any further, the their free lengths (see Figure 4G-18), and replace
sleeve lets go of the keys and rides over to the ring. At them if their free lengths are less than 0.727 inch
this moment, the initial contact between the chamfered (18.45 mm).
ends of teeth of the ring and those of internal teeth of
the sleeve occurs. This contact is such that the inter- Spring Free Length ó Spring Free Length ó
nal teeth of the sleeve align themselves to those of the Standard Service Limit
ring. When the sleeve advances and slides into the
0.807 inch (20.5 mm) 0.727 inch (18.45 mm)
ring, the ring will be rotating nearly with the speed of
the gear, so that the sleeve can smoothly slide over
into the clutch teeth of the gear.
The initial contactor mesh between sleeve and ring is
determined by the widths of key and slot. The key
clearance in the slot should extend at least a third (1/3)
of the chamfer (see Figure 4G-16).
4G
Figure 4G-18. Checking Locating
Spring Free Length
GEAR SHIFT FORK SHAFTS
Check the shift fork shafts at the gear shift lever end
Figure 4G-16. Checking Key Clearance (see Figure 4G-10) for uneven wear. Replace worn
shift fork shafts.
With the synchronizer properly assembled on the
shaft, push in and twist each synchronizer to see if the EXTENSION CASE BUSHING
one-third mesh occurs or not; if not, it means that the
overall wear (which is the sum of the wears of slots, Check the bushing press-fitted into the extension case
keys and chamfered tooth ends) is excessive and, in for wear by measuring the radial clearance between
such a case, the entire synchronizer assembly must bushing bore and sliding yoke as shown in Figure 4G-
be replaced. 19. If the sliding yoke is capable of rattling in the bush
because of advanced wear it will cause the drive shaft
Inspect each synchronizer ring for wear of its key slots to rattle. For this reason, an extension case found to
by measuring the width of each slot. If the width read- allow the drive shaft yoke to rattle in excess of 0.004
ing exceeds the limit shown in Figure 4G-17, replace inch (0.1 mm) must be replaced; replacement of the
the ring. bushing alone will not fix the problem.
Figure 4G-17. Synchronizer Ring Slot Wear
FORK SHAFT LOCATING SPRINGS
Locating springs are used as retainers for the three
shifter fork shafts. If gears have been slipping out of
mesh, check these springs for strength by measuring Figure 4G-19. Bushing-to-Yoke Clearance
4G-11
--- Page 13 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4H. TRANSMISSION (DIESEL ENGINES)
Figure 4H-6. Countershaft Disassembly
COUNTERSHAFT
1. Use a bearing puller to pull the rear bearing (see
Figure 4H-6) off the countershaft.
2. Remove the rear retaining ring and PTO drive
gear.
Figure 4H-8. Countershaft ó Step 5
INPUT SHAFT AND MAIN SHAFT
1. Refer to Figure 4H-9, remove the oil seal, retain-
Figure 4H-7. Reverse Idler Gear and Shaft
ing ring, bearing and input shaft. Pull out the input
3. Remove reverse idler gear and shaft (see Figure shaft, by hand, taking care not to drop the high
4H-7). speed synchronizer rings.
4. Remove the countershaft reverse gear (see Fig- 2. Remove the retaining ring, high speed synchro-
ure 4H-6). nizer rings, springs, needle bearings, high speed
hub and sleeve, and third driven gear from the
5. Remove front retaining ring from countershaft.
main shaft.
Push out countershaft to extension case side by
using hydraulic press. Take countershaft assembly 3. Remove retaining ring for speedometer drive gear
out of case (see Figure 4H-8). and slide off speedometer drive gear.
4. Remove retaining ring and reverse synchronizer
hub from main shaft.
5. Remove reverse drive hub, reverse gear and
reverse gear needle bearing.
4H-4
--- Page 14 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4H. TRANSMISSION (DIESEL ENGINES)
MAIN SHAFT AND INPUT SHAFT NOTE
1. See Figure 4H-26 for general arrangement of the Be careful to install each washer, gear, syn-
countershaft, main shaft and input shaft. chronizer hub and sleeve in the proper direc-
tion. Make sure that balls are installed on the
main shaft.
Figure 4H-26. Main Shaft and Input Shaft
4H-14
--- Page 15 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4J. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REPAIR
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL DISASSEMBLY AND REASSEMBLY
1. Disconnect the negative (ñ) and positive (+) bat-
tery cables from the battery terminals. GENERAL
2. Disconnect the shift cable from the shift switch. Rarely (if ever) will all the disassembly and reassembly
3. Tag and disconnect all cables, hoses or tubes steps in this section be required. Plan ahead to mini-
which are connected to the transmission or which mize the number of major components to be removed
would obstruct lifting the transmission out of the when repairing the transmission. For example, the oil
frame. pan and manually controlled valve (at the base of the
transmission) and the second brake piston (at the side)
4. Remove any sheet metal that would obstruct lifting can be removed without removing internal gearing.
the transmission out of the frame.
The sequence of procedures in this section assume
5. Remove the transmission drain plug located at the major overhaul/repair work which requires repair of the
bottom left, rear corner of the transmission oil pan
planetary gears, clutches, etc.
(see Figure 4J-1) and drain automatic transmis-
sion fluid (ATP) into an environmentally approved Refer to SECTIONS 4B, 4E and 4J to help determine
container. Replace O-ring and install the drain the necessary repairs prior to undertaking the disas-
plug and torque it to 13 to 19.5 ft-lbs. (17.6 to 26.5 sembly and reassembly procedures in this section.
N.m).
6. Disconnect the drive shaft at the transmission (see ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
SECTION 4C). (See Figure 4J-2)
7. Attach a suitable hoist to the transmission. After disconnecting all cables from electrical/electronic
8. Remove hardware that fastens the transmission to components mounted on the exterior of the transmission,
the engine. remove these components as shown in Figure 4J-2.
9. Remove any remaining hardware from mounting Test these components as described in SECTION 10
brackets on the frame until the transmission is free and replace them if they do not meet test requirements.
to be lifted. In addition to these components, two shift solenoids
10. Carefully move the transmission away from the are mounted on the control valve beneath the oil pan
engine flywheel and move the transmission out of (see ìOil Panî later in this section).
the frame to a suitable work stand.
Figure 4J-1. Transmission Drain Plug Location
4J-2
--- Page 16 ---
DRIVE TRAIN
SECTION 4J. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REPAIR
2. Use a spring compression tool to push down the Reassembly (See Figure 4J-12 and the Following
spring seat far enough to remove the spring seat Step-by-Step Illustrations)
snap ring as shown in Figure 4J-13. Remove the 1. Starting at the direct clutch piston (see Figure 4J-12),
spring seat and return spring. replace the inner and outer O-rings on both sides of